8.000 - 12.000
12 December 2018
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Gold set with 30 rose cut diamonds and 25 table cut diamonds
Comprising a pair of girandole earrings with pear-shaped pendants and floral bow with engraved decoration at the back; and a cross-shaped pendant with pear-shaped pendants and floral bow and finials with engraved decoration at the back
Portugal, late 17th, early 18th century
(wear signs, small restorations, one small rose cut diamond missing)
Length: 7,3 cm (pendente), 4,8 cm (brincos)
Excellent and rare example of the first profusely diamond decorated Portuguese baroque jewels; of court model the largest diamonds set are table cuts.
The table cut, alongside point cut, were the first diamond cuts, created in the 15th century for the best diamond crystals once the regular diamond crystal form is octahedral.
The improvement of the table cut, creating a primitive pavillion is a later development made possible by a fundamental event: the arrival of the Portuguese in India in 1498 and the establishment of maritime routes that, for the first time, provided regular supply of diamonds to Europe. The table cut becames the favourite cut for court jewels in the 16th and 17th century.
The rose cut, son developed in the 16th century as a necessity for the irregular crystals makes the association of the two cuts very common in baroque jewels
Jewels of this quality and antiquity are rare in the market.
João Júlio Teixeira, G.D.
SImilar pieces illustrated in OREY, Leonor d', "Cinco Séculos de Joalharia, Museu de Arte Antiga, Lisboa", pps. 38, 46 and 68